Journey to Everest Base Camp: A Tale of Adventure and Suspense

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My journey began in Bengaluru, where I boarded a train that would take 28 long hours to reach Pune. The next day, I met up with my fellow traveler, and we were excited for our next leg: a train to Gorakhpur. However, we soon discovered we had RAC tickets, meaning we had to share a seat for the entire 33-hour journey. I was okay with it, but my partner wasn’t thrilled. Yet, we managed to settle in.

The train passed through Bhopal, Banaras, and Mirzapur, but then it was delayed by four hours. To save time, we decided to take a direct bus to the Sanoli border, which would take about three to four hours. Once we arrived, a friendly tanga rikshaw driver took us to a money exchange shop, where we got a good rate of 1.6 NPR. After purchasing Nepali SIM cards, we hopped on a bus to Kathmandu. The driver promised we’d arrive by 6 PM, but the bumpy roads delayed us, and we reached around 11 PM instead, dusty and exhausted.

In Kathmandu, we took a taxi to Chabahill, where we could catch a jeep to Salleri the next day. We woke up early, but when we got to the jeep station, we learned all the jeeps had already left. After some negotiation, we paid 7,000 NPR for the last jeep. The journey took 10-12 hours on severely damaged roads, exacerbated by landslides. We stopped for lunch and tea breaks, and finally reached a teahouse for the night, enjoying a simple dinner of dal bhat before sleeping.

The following morning, we woke up early and set off for Paiya village. The off-roading was intense in a 4x4 Mahindra Bolero, and we eventually reached Jubing, where we had to cross a bridge to catch another jeep to Thamdada—the last motorable spot. The second leg of the journey cost 2,500 NPR each, and we were reminded to eat lunch at Jubing, as there would be no teahouses until Thamdada. 

From Thamdada, we faced a 3-kilometer walk to Paiya village. We were tired, and just when we thought we’d have to walk further to Lukla, a local man offered us a place to stay at his sister’s house. Grateful, we shared a bed and a simple meal. That day remains etched in my memory.

The next morning, we set off towards Phakding. The path was relatively easy, and we enjoyed breakfast in Cheplung village, where we also got Wi-Fi. We found a good deal for free accommodation, only needing to pay for dinner. The owner explained that there had been fewer trekkers lately due to bad weather, allowing us to enjoy hot showers for 350 NPR—a luxury we wouldn’t often have on this trip.

On October 16th, we knew the day would be challenging as we aimed for Namche Bazaar. We started strong but faced a problem when one of our companions was slow. After passing our last potential lunch spot, I regretted not packing enough food, but luckily I had protein bars and snacks. This oversight led to a heated argument that evening.

The next day, we planned to acclimatize in Namche but felt ready to move on. We headed toward Khumjung village, climbing steep hills and arriving at a nearly deserted place. We learned that everyone had gone to a nearby monastery for a festival. Curious, we decided to join. Upon arriving, we found locals in traditional attire, enjoying tea and boiled potatoes. We savored the cultural experience, then made our way back as darkness fell.

On October 20th, we traveled from Pengboche to Thukla. The wind was fierce, and it felt much colder than it was. We aimed to reach Lobuche, but fatigue led us to stay in Thukla for the night, enjoying dal bhat and rice cake for dinner. The next day, we set off early for Gorakshep and ultimately Everest Base Camp.

As we approached Gorakshep, the chill intensified. Despite the hardships, we pressed on, taking breaks as needed. The views were breathtaking, with the mighty Nuptse mountain looming above us. Finally, we reached Everest Base Camp. The iconic rock with “EVEREST BASE CAMP” written on it was a surreal sight. We took photos, celebrating this monumental achievement.

Our return journey was marked by heavy snowfall, but we pushed through. The roads were treacherous, and it was easier to descend than ascend. Each step was a reminder that while reaching the peak is just 50% of the journey, returning safely completes the adventure.

Over the next six days, we made our way back to Kathmandu, retracing our steps through Khumjung, Phakding, Surke, and finally to Kathmandu. Each stop was filled with new experiences and culinary delights, from street food in Gorakhpur to a colorful night in Thamel.

Finally, we crossed back into India and celebrated Diwali with our families, reflecting on a journey that had tested our limits but also filled us with unforgettable memories. 

We planned, executed, and achieved our goal: reaching Everest Base Camp. It was a journey of a lifetime, one filled with suspense, challenges, and moments that would forever remain in our hearts.